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The Problem with Recycled Polyester

The Problem with Recycled Polyester

The sustainable fashion industry has a story it loves to tell.

Take a plastic bottle from the ocean. Spin it into fibre. Wear it to your next workout. It sounds like progress. The bottle doesn't end up in landfill. The fabric performs. The brand gets to say it's sustainable.

But here's what that story leaves out.


Recycled polyester is still polyester. Recycled plastic is still plastic.

When you work out in recycled synthetic activewear, you're exercising in a garment made from fossil-fuel-derived plastic - just plastic that had a previous life as a bottle rather than being newly extracted from the ground. The base material is chemically identical. And every time you wash it, it sheds.

Hundreds of thousands of microscopic plastic fibres, microplastics, are released into the water system with every wash cycle. Those fibres pass through wastewater treatment plants, enter rivers and oceans, and accumulate in the food chain. They've been found in human blood, lung tissue, and breast milk.

This isn't a fringe concern. It's a well-documented problem with the dominant material of the activewear industry, and recycling the plastic doesn't solve it.


The shortcut that became the standard

The rise of recycled synthetics has done one genuinely useful thing: it's pushed the industry to think harder about waste and end-of-life materials. That conversation matters.

But it's also handed brands a convenient way to claim sustainability credentials without fundamentally changing what they make things from. Recycled polyester, recycled nylon, recycled elastane - these materials are still petroleum-derived polymers. They still shed microplastics. They're still plastic.

What the recycled plastic narrative has achieved, largely, is making consumers feel the problem is solved, when in fact the material sitting against their skin during a workout is chemically almost identical to virgin plastic. Better in lifecycle terms, perhaps. But not different in any meaningful sense.

The question the industry hasn't been asking is: what if we didn't use plastic fibres at all?

Why sportswear defaults to synthetics

It's fair to ask: why does almost all performance sportswear rely on synthetic fibres in the first place?

The answer is that polyester, nylon, and elastane are genuinely useful. They're stretchy. They wick moisture. They're durable, lightweight, and cheap to produce at scale. Natural fibres have traditionally struggled to match these properties in high-performance contexts. So the industry settled on synthetics as the default, and the sustainability conversation became about which kind of synthetic to use, rather than whether to use synthetics at all.

That assumption is what Underscored was built to challenge.

What petroleum-free performance actually looks like

Underscored exists because we believe you shouldn't have to choose between performance and materials that don't come from fossil fuels.

We design from the fibre up. Every decision starts with the same question: can we do this without petroleum-derived fibres? If the answer is no, we go back to the drawing board.
For our Ashdown range - our T-Shirt and Tank, built specifically for padel and tennis - the answer is yes, completely.

We use TENCEL™ Lyocell, a fibre derived from sustainably sourced wood pulp, produced in a closed-loop process that recovers and reuses the vast majority of its production solvent. TENCEL is breathable, moisture-wicking, and naturally thermoregulating. It doesn't shed microplastics. It's biodegradable. And it performs on court.

We also use SeaCell, a bio-based fibre that incorporates seaweed; naturally skin-kind, traceable, and free from petroleum at every stage.

Neither fibre contains plastic. Neither is petroleum-derived. Both are certified, transparent, and genuinely different from what the rest of the activewear industry is built on.

The result is a T-Shirt and Tank that move with you, breathe with you, and wash without releasing a single synthetic microfibre into the water system.

The distinction that matters

There's a phrase used a lot in sustainable fashion: better than conventional. It's become the industry's acceptable minimum, a bar set low enough that almost anyone can clear it by swapping virgin polyester for recycled polyester and calling it progress.

We're not interested in better than conventional. We're interested in genuinely different.
Underscored is built on the premise that petroleum-derived fibres don't belong in performance sportswear. Not virgin ones. Not recycled ones. The fibre itself needs to change, and the technology now exists to make that possible.

We are the only performance sportswear brand in Britain built without a single petroleum-derived fibre. That's not a marketing position. It's a design constraint we set ourselves from day one, and it shapes every decision we make.

Performance without compromise. That's what we're here for.


Ready to make the switch? Explore the Ashdown range - 100% plastic-free, 100% petroleum-free, built for the court.

Shop the Ashdown T-Shirt

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